Resting in Roncesvalles

So, after my nameless friend leaves me at the bar, I go over to talk with the man behind the bar. He is a compact man, probably around my age, and seems friendly. I ask about the room, and he nods, and motions just a moment, so I go back to my seat. Shortly, a younger man comes over with a brochure. Apparently, the hostel part of the place is full, but they have a new hotel just at the back, rooms are approx. 60 Euros, and would I like one of those? Well, it's more than I wanted to pay, but I would be able to go right in, and I know that if I stay in the alburgue (an old church with about 100 beds and not much else), I'd have to wait until 4:30 to get in, and it's barely 10 a.m. right now. So, I take the room. I pay him, and he says it will be just a bit before he can get the key. No problem, I say, I'll just have another coffee. One thing that is consisitently great during my entire trip through Spain is the coffee. Always a pleasure.

Soon, the young man is back with the key and leads me to the hotel. It's a little ways behind the bar, and it looks like it connects, or is being connected via some construction, to the cathedral. It also looks brand new. As we go into the lobby, which is all stone and wood, there is soft music playing, but no one around. He leads me up a flight of stairs and opens the door with the key. Even if I were not on a Camino trip involving staying in hostels and alburgues on the very low end of accommodation, this room would be nearly a palace! It opens into a little kitchenette that is stocked with dishes, glasses, flatware and pots and pans for cooking. There's a little table and chairs in the eating area, then two easy chairs across from a TV, then going around a little partition, is the bedroom and full bathroom! This is heaven! I thank the young man profusely and when he is gone, drop my backpack onto the bed gratefully and follow it. I can't believe I'm in Spain, and I can't believe I'm HERE in this great room. Suddenly, the Camino seems very far away, and it's almost as if I'm back home, just away for the weekend or something. I'm not sure I like that feeling.

But, I do have a mission, and that is to LIGHTEN MY LOAD! I had already left some small bottles of essential oils and some bug spray at Orisson. The only oil I keep is lavender, which I end up using frequently on the much-used beds and pillows that I sleep on, especially after I start getting what I think (and hope!) are bed bug bites. Now, I have to decide what else I do not absolutely need. I place everything on the bed and review critically. Clothing. When I flew over, I wore a pair of black, stretchy knit pants--comfy, but not very lightweight, and also not very quick drying. Okay, they are out. Additionally, a very lightweight fuscia cotton t-shirt. Light, yes, but in London humidity it got soggy very quickly, and did not dry fast. I realize humidity is going to be with me on this journey, so it's out. My TravelSmith Coolmax Travel blanket. I thought it would be an ideal thing to bring with me, but I am finding that it's WAY heavier than I expected, at least for this kind of journey, AND it's an odd size--not quite long enough to cover me when I'm lying down, so I'm always having to re-arrange it. It's out. I really pause over the extra bag I brought. I love it--it's big and roomy, and then folds up into its own little pouch/pocket. It was a wonderful carry-on bag for the trip over. BUT--even all folded up and not taking up much space, it's HEAVY, and heavy is not what I want right now. Thus, it's out. I had already left my Spanish/English dictionary back in St. Jean, (Lo siento, maestra, perro estaba demasiado pesado!) as well as my James Michner "Iberia" book. Even in paperback, that one was a tome! What else, what else? My towel! Oh, damn, I really WANT that towel. I mean, it's not all that heavy, I folded it up into a ziploc bag, I rationalize. And what if I have to walk a ways to and from a shower? I need something to preserve a modicum of modesty! Okay then, I think, what to do? Then I realize I have a pocket knife! I can cut the towel just down to a big enough size to go around me, and discard the rest! Quickly, I have measured just enough towel to keep myself from flapping in the breeze should I need to parade from shower to bed in public, and the rest is easily sliced away and tossed in the trash. The remaining towel is actually much lighter and fits into the ziploc easier. Such a small thing, but it makes me very happy. I can keep my functional towel, and still lighten my load! I learn on this trip how very, amazingly happy such little things can make you.

I then re-pack all the ziploc bags, and finagle everything back into the backpack. I heft it several times and yes, it is noticeably lighter. Great! This, I think, I can carry and get used to. I feel stoked, ready to go. But for now, since I have this wonderful room and this nice bed all to myself, I am going to do a sensible thing. I am going to take a nap.